And it’s by this misdemeanour, breaking the rules, by which metaphor is achieved.
Leonard Bernstein, The Unanswered Questions, The Northon Lessons, 1973
The semantic laws of composition are the guidelines of my design. My mainstream is to work by metaphors not by similes. Whether it’ll lay under a single construction, or under the concept of a capsule collection, nothing is thought randomly.
Deconstructivism, as in Frank Gehry’s Disney Concert Hall, L.A., is a source of inspiration for minimal androgynous garments: linearity and symmetry are broken by insertion of ejecting cuts, sartorial standards are stretched by balanced misproportions.
DOUBLE SKIN THEME
The architectural double skin theme, as found in Jean Nouvel’s Fondation Cartier, Paris or, recently in Rainer Mahlamäki’s Polin Museum, Warsaw, is borrowed to create a dialogue between layers: light and transparent materials and volumes protrude independently from body and from heavy underwear.
Organic Architecture, one of nowadays leading movement, compares building to natural shapes and to bodies. I assumed the principles mostly for my artworks, when I had the necessity to talk about the process of life changing.
Calatrava’s Lyon-Saint Exupéry Station is an inspiring masterpiece, showing off the framework of a fossil bird. The structure reminds of gigantic ribs.
I borrowed it in pleated organza clothes as complex as sculptures. The transparency of silk evokes the Exuvia, the dead skin left behind by insects during the molting season, a symbol of rebirth in natural cycles.